Happy Halloween, if thats your thing, and happy end-of-October if it isn’t! Halloween really isn’t a big thing in NZ, mostly I think because its such a seasonal holiday and its weird to celebrate it in the middle of spring! I’m very glad its the end of October, this month has just kicked my arse. Between the end of the academic year (everything got handed in on time and in a state that I was happy with, yay), work getting busy, some big weekend celebrations (birthdays, long weekends full of amazing dancing with amazing dance teachers from around the world), and getting sick, I haven’t had much time at my sewing machine. I did take the opportunity to drop my machine in for a full service when I was studying, which had the added benefit of removing the temptation of procrastination sewing, and I assembled a bunch of PDF patterns, so I did get some sewing related stuff done. I have also made a start on my summer sewing plans, starting with some rather practical items straight from my list.
A striped denim Moss Mini and a Lark tee! Its going to be a Grainline Studios kind of summer (again). I’ll start with the skirt, because its definitely the more interesting garment. I made the same size as my cat Moss Mini, but I took a 1/2″ wedge out of the centre back seam of the yoke to combat the slight gape I had last time. I also lengthened it by 3″, so its not quite so mini anymore!
Its ended up a bit tighter than my Cat version, and a bit higher waisted! I think the tightness is due to the fact that I assembled the pockets correctly this time, so there is less width across the hips in the front (last time I sewed the fronts to the pocket pieces so that everything was flat, rather than matching the notches correctly so that the pockets pop out the front a bit to accomodate the hand). It might also be because I’ve spent all winter eating chocolate, but I’ll say its because of the pockets… I’m not sure why it feels like its sitting higher on my waist though!
I love the pockets, I’m glad I got them right this time! I like the length too, its going to be easier for me to wear than the shorter version. My main irritation with my cat Moss Mini is that its too short to wear with any of my half slips, and it ends up climbing my tights in a somewhat scandalous way. Wellington being Wellington, there isn’t a huge window to wear skirts without tights, so I really wanted to line this version so that I could wear it all year around.
I used the same spotty navy lining that I used to save my favourite blazer, I’ve definitely had my moneys worth out of that $5 remnant! I was particularly stubborn about this lining, I wanted it to be a proper lining rather than an underlining, but I also wanted it to work neatly with the fly. This is what I did, incase anyone is interested:
1)Cut out back lining pieces as usual, assemble skirt and lining backs and skirt fronts as per instructions.
2) Before sewing CF seam, use the front pieces to cut out lining. (Clever people could probably do this accurately from the pattern pieces, but I was having trouble figuring out exactly what shape it would be)
3)Sew CF seam to the fly notch on both lining and main fabric (finish seams etc), then baste the lining to the skirt wrong sides together along the two raw CF edges where the fly will be inserted. I pinned the lining flat to the other edges of the skirt as well, to keep it out of the way.
4) Treating the lining and main skirt as one, insert the fly as instructed.
5) Continue assembling the skirt as per the instructions, sewing the skirt side seams and the lining side seams separately. Flip the lining right side out so that everything is (hopefully) oriented correctly for the waistband to go on. Baste the lining and skirt together around the waist.
6) Treating the lining and fabric as one piece, attatch the waistband. Finish the skirt as instructed.
I hope that makes some sense! I didn’t think to take any pictures as I was doing it, and I’m not very good at explaining my processes anyway, so I think I’d be pretty rubbish at writing actual tutorials. I’m pretty happy with how its turned out, its nice and neat and didn’t take much more time than making it unlined!
And now my tee shirt (briefly)…
This is the Grainline Lark, made up with the cap sleeves and V-neck options. I’ve never made a V-neck before, it wasn’t as tricky as I thought it would be! Its a bit wobbly, but not bad for a first try. It’s made in a mystery knit I got from the Fabric Warehouse pop up sale shop, which has turned out to be weirdly itchy on the wrong side, so I’m not sure how much wear it will get! Maybe it’ll get better after a few washes…, I sewed up a size 6, as usual for me and Grainline patterns, but I did have to cut 3″ off the bottom and then use a 1″ hem. Its really long!
I sewed the neckband on with my sewing machine and then neatened it with my overlocker, as reccomended in the instructions. It was much easier to get the point neat! I topstitched it with a straight stitch rather than my twin needle, as I didn’t know how to deal with the point with two rows of stitching. There is no tension on the neckline, so hopefully I won’t pop any stitches!
As expected, Lark is a lovely pattern that I’ll be making a lot of! I think I’ll get a tonne of wear out of the skirt as well, I just need to figure out how to wear tops with it. Tucked in, untucked or the half in half out look? I’ll need to experiment!