90’s throwback

Note: I’ve been paying attention to the current conversations happening on social media about cultural appropriation and violence towards Asian communities. Since making these garments my understanding of cultural appropriation has grown and I now see how the naming of this collection is problematic, and is a form of cultural appropriation. I’m also aware that a considerable number of people contacted Papercut Patterns some time ago in relation to this collection, and that it’s taken several years to be resolved. When the new pattern names are announced I will amend my posts relating to the collection, and I am also making a donation to a local charity to reflect the amount I have spent on these patterns. I’m considering other courses of action I can take, including removing these blog posts all together, I welcome any suggestions people might have regarding this. I’m very grateful to the people on social media who have done so much work to educate and inform me about these topics.

This revival of 90’s fashion is weirding me out a little bit, it’s the first time clothing I remember wearing when I was a kid is back in the shops! I vividly remember having a slip dress when I was 8 or 9, it was chocolate brown and had a cream ditzy floral print. I wore it over one of those white ribbed tee shirts that everyone had, probably with jelly sandals, and I thought I was so cool. And now, 20 years later, I’ve cycled back around to the cami-dress and tee shirt combo! I’m not doing jellies again though, those things gave me wicked blisters…


This is a Cami/Dress from Papercut Patterns. I admit, I passed over this one when it was first released, it looked a bit too cleavage-y and the low back makes wearing a bra hard. Then I started seeing the whole slip and tee shirt combo coming back, and I changed my mind about it! I really like the shape of this pattern, the triangular bodice pieces and the scooped back are so pretty. I chose my usual Papercut size of XS, which is a size down from where my measurements put me, but which seems to fit best! 


I chose a very drapey dark teal rayon crepe from deep in my stash to try this out. I love how flowy the crepe is with this pattern, but it does hang very heavily from that central point where the skirt and bodice pieces meet. Something with a bit more structure (or less weight) would sit more smoothly there I think! I debated about whether I should sew fixed length straps, but in the end I followed the instructions and used lingerie sliders to make them adjustable. If I shorten the straps heaps I can hike the back of the dress up high enough to cover my bra band, though I doubt I’ll be wearing it alone! It’s a good option for a slip though…

I did make my life slightly more complicated by changing the order of construction so that I could line the bodice cleanly. I sewed the skirt pieces to just the outer bodice pieces, and then hand sewed the lining pieces over the seam so that it’s all nice and tidy inside. 


The tee shirt I’m wearing here is also a new one, it’s a crew neck Lark tee made in some more of the striped cotton/Lycra knit that I made a long sleeved version out of last year. I’ve used every version of the Lark pattern now! I used the short sleeve piece here, but I prefer the cap sleeve I think. Something to remember for next time! 

15 thoughts on “90’s throwback

  1. When you get as old as me, everything you’ve previously worn has come back into fashion and I only started to be fashionable in the 60’s. Fashion takes it’s ques from all the previous ages, take for example the current fashion for skinny jeans first started by the Teddy Boys in the late 50’s. The only problem from my point of view is it does make you feel older when you keep seeing clothes and thinking, been there done that!

  2. Yes I remember that trend too, mine was a black dress over a white tee…. could you make this with non stretch lace in the cups I wonder? Would be such a pretty slip or nightie…. love it in the teal.

    1. You could definitely make this one into pretty lingerie by using lace, I think if you put the scalloped edge of the lace along the inner line of the bodice pieces and then bound the back edge and up under the arms it would work. The binding could extend up and become the straps, if that makes sense?

  3. You are giving me an idea how to dress my own Mito Dress. I have made a chocolat brown one to go with my Kobe dress which is so sheer I can‘t wear it alone. I have changed the steps exactly like you to get a clean finish! You have chosen a lovely colour and your dress suits you really well!

  4. This is a trend that totally deserves to come back round. The first dress I ever tried to make was a replica of Julie Delpy’s outfit in Before Sunrise (slip dress over a white t-shirt, c.1994)… my make didn’t turn out as well as this one though! And the adjustable straps are a great idea too.

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