More Secret Pyjamas: Sallie Playsuit

I feel like I’ve spent weeks sewing for a summer which still hasn’t shown up! We’ve had gale force winds all week (strong even for Wellington, I thought I was going to have a Wizard of Oz moment one night), and now that they’ve finally dropped off the clouds have come down so low that I can’t see to the end of the street. Get it together Wellington, I have shorts and lovely floaty linen tops which need to be worn! I did manage to wear this play suit for most of yesterday, until it got a bit chilly in the afternoon and I had to revert back to jeans…


I made this up just after Christmas, during my manic stay-home-and-sew holiday. I bought about five metres of this black knit from the Fabric Warehouse’s massive fabric sale sometime last year, and its lovely and soft. I can’t remember what it actually is, but I’m assuming a cotton/lycra/something blend. It was very easy to cut and sew, the edges only rolled a little bit and it went through my overlocker and sewing machine with no trouble. I have so much left, I think I’ll make myself a slip and some camisoles out of some of it and them stash the rest of it until inspiration strikes!


The pattern is the Sallie Jumpsuit and Maxi-dress from Closet Case Files, the only alteration I made was to lop the legs off the jumpsuit at the length I wanted them! In hindsight I wish that I had widened the shorts slightly, or maybe just gone up a size in the bottom half, just so that I had a bit more room for the pockets and a bit more flare in the shorts. When I went back and read the post Heather Lou wrote about her playsuit she outlined exactly how to make the shorts more swingy, and I’m kicking myself for not looking up that post before making this!


Even with the narrower shorts I think it’s a pretty cute and easy to wear garment. I love the front and back V necklines, and the little cap sleeves. I must have stretched one side of the neckline out slightly, probably when I was fusing the inferfacing to it right at the beginning, and it does annoy me slightly. You can see in the first photo that the left side of the neckline isn’t sitting quite right. I do love the clean finish that lining the bodice gives though, and the double layer of this thin knit means that it doesn’t show the line of my bra which is nice. In fact, I ended up using a double layer of fabric on the shorts as well, as they were a bit clingy and definitely showed too much VPL! Two layers is a nice weight, but it was a bit of a fiddle adding the lining into the shorts once it was all assembled. I do like to make things difficult. for myself…


I’m pretty sure I’ll always wear it with a belt, but here it is without. I have a few changes I’d like to make if I make it again (and I would like to make it again, I think it’d be a great travel garment!). Firstly, I’ll pick a slightly thicker knit to try to avoid the clingy shorts thing, and just line the bodice with something lightweight. I’ll also follow the tutorial to make the legs wider. I had a bit of an epiphany when I tried this on for the first time, never having had any success with RTW playsuits (or the woven one I so ambitiously made when I was new to sewing). Because I have a really high waist I need to take length off the bodice or it’ll be way to blousy/gapey, a mod which I make automatically now, and which doesn’t really affect anything when I’m making a dress but really does when I’m adding a pair of shorts instead of a skirt. My crotch depth is pretty standard, so of course I need to add length to it if I’m hoisting the waist up by a few inches. It seems so basic now that I think about it, but I hadn’t ever considered it. So next time, add the amount I take off the length of the bodice to the shorts! I also want to have a go at the dress, I think it would be another lovely easy to wear summer garment. So many plans, so little time…

Even though it isn’t perfect I’m pretty sure it’ll still get some wear (if summer ever shows up), because it really is so soft and comfortable. And yes, getting out of it to go to the loo is slightly more hassle than if you were wearing a dress or shorts and a tee shirt, but it’s really not a problem. The neckline is plenty wide enough to make it quick and easy!

19 thoughts on “More Secret Pyjamas: Sallie Playsuit

  1. Looks great! Black is so good for jumpsuits – I can’t really notice any of those minor issues you’ve pointed out so hopefully it still gets lots of wear. I don’t know if this is a mean thing to say (sorry!) but it’s almost too hot here in auckland – I have to retreat to the gloomiest part of the house just to cope most afternoons. Hope summer heads south soon 🙂

    1. I’ve just seen the weather forecast for the rest of the country, I’m feeling very hard done by! Hope we get some of the good weather soon 🙂 I agree, black is good for jumpsuits!

  2. Very nice! I haven’t really liked the jumpsuit/playsuit trend, but you have me re-considering my stance. This is very cute and looks really comfortable.
    Also, if it makes you feel better here in the Northern Hemisphere (Tennessee, USA to be exact) we only JUST got rid of 4 inches (10 cm) of snow!

  3. What a lovely jumpsuit and it looks super comfy indeed! Sorry to hear about the missing summer weather, that must be really annoying (summers are kind of unreliable where I live too so I definitely feel you 🙂

  4. I’m totally into jumpsuits/playsuits lately but I haven’t made one myself so far, I just own some RTW ones. I don’t like the long version of this pattern so much, I think the wide leg does look a bit silly, but I really like your short version!
    It’s funny to read your complaints tho. Like Naomi said, I can’t really see any of them in you pictures but I know the feeling if something is off, even if it’s just a tiny bit. I guess we’re all becoming perfectionist the longer we sew. 😉 Nevertheless, I hope it gets a lot of wear.

    1. Thanks Friederike! I think I am hyper-critical of my own sewing. I hope it doesn’t seem like I’m whinging though, I’m mostly just recording things for posterity in case I make the pattern again!

      1. No, it doesn’t sound like whining at all! Like I said, I guess it’s inevitable to become hyper critical the more you sew and I do the very same thing with everything I make.
        Well, best be honest with ourself and write everything down that bothers us. I don’t care if one might think it’s too critical, I have to wear it. 😉

    1. Argh, I’ve just found this comment in the Spam section Sarah! Sorry! I’m terribly jealous of your 38 degree weather, though I’d settle quite happily for 25ish degrees. We’re just getting storm after storm, it sucks…

  5. It looks lovely. I have made the dress and dying to do the short jumpsuit. I am glad you wrote about it. I had the fabric since last summer, just lack of time. You are inspiring me to tackle it soon! Thanks

  6. They look great just as they are. I really like the back with the tie across the back. Did you use stretch interfacing or regular? I never had any luck finding stretch interfacing, but maybe normal works just as well?

    1. It’s a tiny bit stretchy, I think it’s a tricot interfacing? It’s been in my stash for ages! It certainly isn’t anywhere near as stretchy as the knit, but the neckline is so wide that it doesn’t need to stretch really. The instructions also suggest clear elastic, but I didn’t have any! I like the tie too, it’s a cute little detail 🙂

  7. This is great Kirsten!! That knit looks lovely and you are really making me want to revisit this pattern when it warms up. 😉

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