Spring weight Tamarack

So I was hugely excited when Grainline Studios released their latest pattern, the quilted Tamarack Jacket. I love the simple shape and the curved hem, and I was keen to try some basic quilting. Quilting quilts has never appealed to me, but I thought this might be fun!
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My first big challenge was finding some fabric I liked. I almost picked a slubby linen out, but in the end I chose this black and white double gauze. I’m not sure I made the right choice to be perfectly honest, there’s something about the gauze that I’m not sure works. It was a beast to quilt, thats for sure! I used nearly all of my pins on each piece, and the underneath layer still shifted around in ways I didn’t expect. I used cotton batting, which is lovely and soft but quite dense, so the quilted fabric doesn’t have much drape to it. 

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The idea of putting welt pockets through my newly quilted double gauze was horrifying to me, but the instructions were really good, and they turned out really neatly. Even the inside looks neat, which I love!

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I bound all of the internal seams with more bias tape (so much bias tape in this project!), as the gauze frays like nothing on earth. I cheated a bit, and bound all of the edges (except for the armscye and the sleeve cap edges) before I sewed it together. This meant that instead of starting the binding at the side notches, I started at the top of each side and applied it as instructed. I think I should probably have done it differently, ironing the seam allowances open and flat and then stitching the binding over the whole shebang to keep it flat would have been much less bulky!

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I don’t love it done up. I think I might drop the neckline slightly for my next version, and I’ll definitely change the hook and eye closure for something more substantial. I think extending the front edges and overlapping them and inch or so with some press studs to keep it closed would work better.

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I actually really like the shape from the back, I thought it would be much more shapeless and bulky looking!

I’m not sure what it is about this version that is making me a bit unsure. I feel like I should really like it, but there is something about it which is making me less enthusiastic that I expected. It doesn’t help that Monsieur said it looked like an oven glove (when I had it turned inside out) and not I can’t unsee the resemblance! I’m definitely planning on making another one, in a plain fabric next time. I think I’ll use wool batting and brushed cotton or flannel for the lining, so it’ll be lovely and cosy for Autumn. I love Bella’s blue version, I think the striped quilting looks better (less oven gloveish) than the diamond pattern I used!

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 What do you think? All opinions and constructive criticism welcome!

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17 thoughts on “Spring weight Tamarack

  1. I really like this jacket and I totally don’t think it looks like an oven glove. I think from the few finished Tamarack jackets that I’ve seen so far that I will probably try a less is more approach to the quilting. Maybe having less quilting would help retain more of the fabric’s drape? I am a little scared to do it, but I really want to make this jacket in double gauze based on your jacket and the lovely one made by Katie of What Katie Sews.

  2. I don’t know…… (She shrugs with an elegant indecisiveness)…. Your workladyship is amazing, and the fabric looks wonderful quilted but it’s not a pattern that has appealed to me and I just can’t get past all that time and effort for a jacket with such (she hesitates)…. insipid closure options! I think the style would look a lot more chic if it were shorter, more like a Chanel silhouette.

    1. I definitely understand where you’re coming from! The hooks and eyes are problematic, I kept getting my necklace and headphones caught in them when I was out this afternoon, which was annoying. And they pop open a lot. I’ve already seen a version with a zip, so thats something to consider. I’ll think about a shorter version too, I hadn’t thought of that!

  3. I really like this jacket on you! You did a beautiful job with the construction, and I agree that it’s not as boxy on you as I would have expected this pattern to be. I also agree that hooks and eyes are not the best closure option for a jacket, but that can be fixed if it’s driving you crazy. I hope you wind up wearing this! 🙂

  4. I think this looks cosy on you Kirsten, I wonder with your light colouring if a slightly more mid tone colour would be more flattering? But any old how, you can always wear a scarf near your face. I’ve always admired those chinese quilted jackets in the second hand shops, this pattern is similar I think. I have a lovely grey cotton quilted bed cover almost unused as hubby finds it too heavy. I reckon with its chic patterned quilting it would be very interesting as a Tamarack. Let me know if you want it, I can send a photo.
    Just a thought, why wait for a 2nd to recut the neckline, it looks like an easy fix? Just that when I alter things I often wonder why I hadn’t tackled the task earlier. Cold here in Sydney, come on over if you want to wear it!

    1. I probably should alter it, but the idea of redoing all that binding is just a bit much at the moment! I like those quilted Chinese jackets too, they always look so warm. Thanks for the kind offer of fabric, but I’m rather drowning in my stash these days…must sew faster!

  5. I really like it! I don’t think that it looks like an oven glove at all but I do find the suggestion humorous so props to your man for that one! I think that the patterned fabric might contribute to it looking more casual, but after all it’s a casual design so I don’t think it’s a bad thing. Maybe it’ll end up being your ‘weekend Tamarack’.

    Warning regarding wool batting: I should probably edit my own Tamarack post to say that my wool batting has started migrating outside, i.e. the dreaded bearding. Wool fibres are poking out pretty much all over and although it’s not so bad that I look like a sheep, I do look like I’ve been cuddling a cat. It’s a bummer. For my next one I’m definitely using cotton batting!

    Btw did you use a walking foot? After our conversation I went and got a real 2nd hand Bernina one and it’s so good!

    1. Oh no, bummer about the batting! Thanks for the warning. I did use a walking foot, which I think helped. I didn’t do a quilt test without the walking foot (bad science! Need a control group!) so I’m not sure how bad the shifting would have been without it!

  6. Ugh! Sometimes partners’ make the worst comments don’t they!?! I think this looks really cute and I agree with you that it has a much nicer shape than I thought it might. Personally while I find double gauze is lovely to wear, it’s not much fun to work with so it may have been the problem. Your welt pockets look perfect especially bound on the inside!

  7. I think it’s great! The fabric and the insides are gorgeous. I used double gauze for my Tamarack too, but I used a fusible batting inside which really helped with stability and drape.

    1. Thanks Katie! Fusible batting sounds like a really good idea. I wondered about sticking my layers together with some spray adhesive, but I couldn’t find any in the end. I love the double gauze that you used, its gorgeous 🙂

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