Man Sewing: A long awaited pair of trousers

Look, I did some unselfish sewing! A pair of Thread Theory Jedediah Trousers for Monsieur.

  

I cut these trousers out before we moved into our new house in March. That means that they sat in the corner of my sewing room for two months before I started sewing them together, and then for another month when I made a mistake and put them back in the corner in disgust. Talk about slack! I managed to get them finished at the beginning of June, but its taken me until this weekend to get him to stand still for long enough for me to get some photos of them. He’s been wearing them quite a bit since they were finished, so thats why they’re a bit creased.

 

I thought they would be a pretty straightforward job, the Jedediah shorts that I made him over the summer worked out fine with minimal pattern changes. Unfortunately, I was wrong! They gave me serious grief, and I still can’t figure out why. My first problem arose when he tried them on for the first fitting, and couldn’t get them over his calves. That was a pretty easy fix, I just let the outer leg seam out below the knee. They’re still pretty snug, but he shouldn’t bust out of them when he’s walking up a hill!

 The next fitting problem is what got them banished to the corner again, and which I still havn’t fully resolved.  I just can’t get these ones to fit across the front, there was a whole lot of fabric pooling across the front between the pockets and the fly. I managed to minimise it slighly by taking them in a bit at the side seams, but it still wasn’t perfect. I read Heathers’ post on her fitting adventures with the Ginger Jeans pattern, and realised that putting the waistband on might help with the way they fit, so I got the Jedediahs out of the corner and tried them with the waistband. Its better, but still not perfect. The only thing I can think of is that the slightly heavier cotton twill I made this version in made them fit differently to the lighter weight cotton I made the shorts out of…but they’re wearable, and as well fitting as his RTW jeans, so it could be worse.

 
They fit pretty well from the back, though I could probably take some width out of the thigh next time. I’m pleased with my flat felled seams this time, they’re much neater and straighter than the last lot. The pockets are much more symmetrical too.

  

I shortened the belt loops by about a centimetre on these trousers, and put one at each of the side seams at Monsieurs request. He likes to use them to haul his trousers back up to his waist, so the ones on his shorts being off centre were causing him problems…I also had a go at using topstitching thread on the waistband and beltloops, as well as around the pocket edges. That was a mission! My machine was not happy with the thick Gütterman topstitching thread and several layers of heavy twill, even with standard thread in the bobbin. But I persevered, and with a lot of hand cranking of my needle I got it done.

 
I used some scraps of navy polka dotted polyester for the pockets, as the lovely cotton I used in his shorts has been ripped to shreds. Hopefully the polyester will be up to the rigours of a pocketful of screws or rivets or whatever else he’s carrying around with him…

   

My final hurdle came when he tried them on after the final fitting adjustments, when I realised that I didn’t have enough length to turn them up twice and stitch the hem. So I just used some bias tape to turn them up, and stitched that down with the topstitching thread again. 

So that I don’t forget for net time, I need to

  • Widen the legs from the knee down by about 1.5cm
  • Take about 1.5cm off the side seams at the hip
  • Lengthen legs by about 5cm
  • Shorten belt loops by 1cm
  • Increase depth of pocket bags by several cm.

He’s wearing them a lot, so they aren’t too bad, but I’ll try and get them to fit better next time! The cotton twill I used this time seems to be wearing much better than the stuff I used for his shorts, that fabric discoloured and looked worn so quickly! Its a bit disapointing. 

 
I’ll leave you with this picture of his best Blue Steel. This is what happens when I ask for nice photos… 

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